Every summer, we get hundreds of calls from Florida pool owners worried about water loss. About half of them have an actual leak. The other half are just seeing normal seasonal evaporation. This guide will help you figure out which group you're in — before you spend money on a diagnostic you don't need.
After 35+ years of Florida pool specialist work — we've developed a reliable checklist of the signs that actually indicate a pool leak. This isn't "maybe" signs. These are the patterns we've seen thousands of times and correlated with actual diagnosed leaks.
First, rule out evaporation.
Florida pools lose water every day. In summer, expect about ¼ inch per day from evaporation alone. Heated pools, pools with waterfalls, pools with spas running, and pools in full sun all lose more. Before worrying about a leak, confirm you're actually losing more than the evaporation baseline.
The Bucket Test
This is the single most reliable DIY test for whether you have a leak or just evaporation. Takes 5 minutes to set up and 24 hours to get an answer.
- Place a 5-gallon bucket on the second or third step of the pool. It should be partially submerged so it's stable.
- Fill the bucket with pool water to match the pool's water level.
- Mark both water levels. Mark the inside of the bucket and the outside (on the pool tile or with waterproof tape).
- Wait 24 hours. Leave everything undisturbed. Do not run the pump.
- Compare the drop. If the pool dropped more than the bucket, you have a leak. If they dropped the same amount, it's just evaporation.
The 10 signs of an actual leak.
Losing more than ½ inch per day (bucket test positive)
If the bucket test shows the pool dropping more than the bucket, you have a leak. Period. Time to call a specialist — the issue won't fix itself, and leaks tend to get worse over time.
Spike in city water bill
If your pool has an auto-fill line connected to city water, a leak shows up on your water bill before it shows up visually. A sudden increase of $40–$200/month is a strong leak indicator — especially if nothing else about your water use has changed.
Wet spots around the deck or equipment pad
Persistent damp soil, efflorescence (white mineral deposits) on the deck, moss growing between pavers, or soggy grass in a specific direction from the pool are classic signs of an underground plumbing leak. The water is following the plumbing run.
Visible cracks in the shell or tile line
Horizontal cracks, vertical cracks, or separation between waterline tile and the beam are all active structural issues. Not every crack leaks, but many do. An underwater inspection can confirm which ones are active.
Air in the pump basket
Consistent air bubbles in the pump basket mean you have a suction-side leak — usually in the skimmer throat, the suction line, or a fitting near the equipment pad. The pump is pulling air, which is why it's visible in the basket.
Chemistry that won't hold
If you're constantly adjusting chlorine, pH, or alkalinity and nothing stays balanced, a leak is diluting the pool faster than you can compensate. This is particularly common with slow, small leaks that fall under the "½ inch per day" threshold that some companies use to dodge warranty coverage.
Decking settling or sinking
A leak in underground plumbing can undermine the soil beneath the deck, causing settling, cracking, or sudden depressions in the deck surface. This is a late-stage symptom — by the time decking settles, the leak has usually been active for months.
Heater running constantly
For heated pools and spas, a leak means constant fresh cold water being added — which means the heater is constantly working to bring temperature back up. High electric or gas bills on a heated pool are often the first sign of a leak.
Auto-fill running more than normal
Pools with auto-fill lines will silently mask a leak by continually adding water. If you can observe the auto-fill solenoid — and it's running constantly or cycling frequently — you have a leak. Many owners don't notice this one until the water bill spikes.
Water level drops to a specific height, then stops
One of the most useful diagnostic clues. If the pool drops to a certain level and then stops losing water, the leak is at that level — usually a skimmer throat crack, return fitting failure, or tile-line separation at that height. Note exactly where the water stops, and tell your leak technician — it's gold for diagnosis.
Seeing three or more of these signs?
It's time to have a specialist look at the pool. Early diagnosis means cheaper repair — almost every time.
Get a Quote →What not to do.
Don't drain the pool on your own.
This is a real danger in Florida. The water table is often close to the surface, and an empty pool can lift out of the ground due to hydrostatic pressure — a disaster that costs tens of thousands of dollars to fix. Never drain a Florida pool without specialist supervision.
Don't dump sealant in the pool.
The "pool leak sealer" products at big box stores work sometimes, on some leaks, temporarily. More often they clog filters, coat the interior of plumbing lines, and complicate a proper diagnostic when you eventually have to call a specialist. Skip them.
Don't ignore it hoping it'll stop.
Leaks don't self-heal. They get worse. A small leak becomes a big leak, a big leak causes deck settling and structural damage, and what started as a $500 diagnostic turns into a $5,000 repair. Early intervention is always cheaper.
What to do.
Call a leak specialist — not a general pool service company. Ask about their warranties (look for written, multi-year coverage), ask about their repair methodology (underwater repair means no draining), and ask for references if it's a commercial property. A good specialist will give you all three without hesitation.
Most residential pool leak detections run $350 to $650 and pay for themselves within 2–6 months in water, chemistry, and secondary damage savings. On a commercial property, the ROI is usually measured in weeks.
Ready for a diagnosis?
No obligation. Written warranty on every job. Response within one business day.
Get a Quote → Volusia & Flagler(386) 226-0078Brevard(321) 384-6963